Made to order, seasoned to taste

Street Soup The time had come. I’d passed her two or three times and watched her ladle, steam rising from her soup. Her little stand was neat with bowls of leafy greens, cilantro and celery lined up, waiting in their bowls. Noodles, rice and wheat, thick and thin, pressed into the front of her glass […]

Northern Laos, Part 2

BaNa Can’t get more farmed-foraged-and-fished than our meal of river fish with garden dill and a squeeze of lime picked from the tree out back. Light and fresh, we ate them whole, heads and all, from their bamboo infused broth, their bones crunching ever- so-slightly in our mouths.

Northern Laos, Part I

Nam Ou river After landing in Luang Prabang, Laos, my pals Shirley, Judy and I headed north, with our friend-guide Ticky. Meanwhile, Tommy jubilated in town with croissants and coffee. Sharp, agile, quick to laugh, Ticky was born in a cave. The first bite his Khmu parents fed him was bat meat, so he’d be […]

Chiang Dao

Getting from Chiang Mai to Chiang Dao, Thailand Visualize the inside of a bus that looks like a 50’s dinner, with lots of chrome. We grabbed the last two seats, or so we thought. Turns out that what looked like two-to-a-row seating is three-to-a-row seating, which we found out as folks piled in at each […]

First look at Chiang Mai

I love trains, always have. Something about the sound, the rush of scenery, the anticipation of arrival. Their history and lore in books and films. But I knew the 15-hour night train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai would not be like the Some Like It Hot train scene, with lots of upper bunk lower bunk fun, and Marilyn Monroe playing […]

Bangkok

Tommy jubilating at the sacred Wat Pho in Bangkok. The temple complex is home to 1,000 Buddha images, including the largest, the reclining Buddha. It is also a working Buddhist monastery, as well as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. After he quit his job, Tommy took on a 10-day silent meditation retreat to tackle his years-old sleeping problem. It worked, and when it doesn't he just happily meditates.
Tommy jubilating at the sacred Wat Pho in Bangkok. The temple complex is home to 1,000 Buddha images, including the largest, the reclining Buddha. It is also a working Buddhist monastery, as well as the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. After he quit his job, Tommy took on a 10-day silent meditation retreat to tackle his years-old sleeping problem. It worked, and when it doesn’t he just happily meditates.

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Where am I from?

As I stepped into the museum today, the man at the register asked me where I was from, and it gave me pause. Am I from New England, the beautiful Berkshires? I lived there for 25 years in our funky old house with wide-planked floors that tipped to one side. It’s where my husband found a […]